My experience exploring the historic landmarks and food streets of Hyderabad
Hyderabad is the kind of place which requires more than one visit. I travelled to Charminar a long time ago on a busy afternoon and always wanted to explore the old city in the morning for longer, and some of the palaces, forts, and places where locals eat. While my plan was light, it was going to take me three full days.
The city is on the Deccan plateau in Telangana, and its history goes back to the Qutb Shahi dynasty in the 16th century. Later, the Nizams influenced what visitors can see today. The city’s multiple historical layers are in the old part, where streets, shopping and monuments intersect.
Arriving in Hyderabad ready to walk
Since the plan involved a lot of walking, I wanted to arrive fresh. I selected a business class cabin on the flight into Hyderabad International Airport (HYD), also known as Rajiv Gandhi International Airport, and I am glad I did. The seat had generous legroom, boarding felt unhurried and a hot meal was served soon after takeoff.
It might seem small, but I didn’t need time for recovery. Upon arrival, I just dropped my luggage at the hotel and went straight to the old city, which meant there was still enough energy to see the evening view of Charminar.
Morning at Charminar in Hyderabad
Charminar was built in 1591 by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, and it still anchors the entire old city. I arrived early, before the traffic thickened. The four minarets looked pale against a clear sky, and pigeons wheeled around the arches.
Nearby, Mecca Masjid is among the region’s largest mosques, featuring a big courtyard where people sit comfortably. Wear modest clothes and speak softly while there. From it, Laad Bazaar extends with many bangle stores, pearl sellers, and perfume stalls. I did not buy much, but I could have walked around for hours.
Chai and breakfast stops in Hyderabad
No trip here is complete without consuming Irani chai. Nimrah Cafe and Bakery, near Charminar beside Mecca Masjid, is popular amongst locals. The tea is sweet and served with crispy Osmania biscuits.
For breakfast, I headed to Ram Ki Bandi at Moazzamjahi Market, a small outlet famous for serving dosas. There were plenty of people, but service was quick. The dosa was served hot with chutney and a spoonful of ghee.
Palaces and forts around Hyderabad
On day two, I saw Chowmahalla Palace as the top attraction. This building served as the seat of the Nizams and is characterised by large courtyards, chandeliers, and various pieces of furniture from back in the day. Make sure to set aside at least a couple of hours because it is worth it.
Golconda Fort is approximately 11 km from the centre of the old city, and I visited in the evening. The climb is steady, as it is made from stone steps, and the best thing is the views over the city from the top. The fort is also famous for its acoustics. A guide showed me how the sound of claps can be heard from the top.
Practical notes for Hyderabad
October and March are the most pleasant times in the city. One may walk between these sites. For trips to Chowmahalla or Golconda, you may need a taxi or an auto rickshaw. Carry cash in small denomination bills for stalls.
Many monuments close one day a week, and some have midday breaks. Check timings before you leave. Mornings are best for the old city, since traffic and crowds build quickly after ten.
What Hyderabad left with me
I came away with a clearer sense of how the city fits together. A slow morning at Charminar, a cup of Irani chai and an afternoon at Golconda go a long way. It is a city best enjoyed on foot, with a little time to spare.
